Hurricane Season is serious business on the Gulf Coast.  The hurricanes affect residents from the coastal counties and extending many miles inland, causing severe property damage as the hurricane dissipates moving inland.  DO NOT underestimate the ability of even a small hurricane to do serious damage and pose a serious hazard to life and safety.  Damage can occur from both high winds, wind-driven water, rising water, and storm surge near the costal areas.

Consider this document as a basic primer about the things you should consider in preparation for hurricane season.  Keep in mind that preparations will vary based upon the needs of you and your family, your location, and your home.  You should  contact your local city manager and office of Emergency Management for further information and recommendations specific to your area.  Much of the information in this document was taken from resources found in the links at the end of this document.  These links have been included at the end of this document to help you to find additional information.

Preparing Before the Hurricane at Beginning of Hurricane Season:

The following recommendations should be considered at the start of hurricane season.

• Know the storm surge history and elevation of the area.  (Emergency Management and National Weather Service officials can often help supply this information).
• Prepare a family emergency plan for evacuation.  Learn the safe primary and alternate routes inland.
• Organize your important documents in the event you must evacuate.  Store all legal documents in one secure container or cabinet which is easily moved.  Make an inventory of documents, photos, and other irreplaceable items that need to be taken in the case of evacuation.
• If you have storm shutters for your home insure they are in good and serviceable condition or repair them if necessary.
• Prepare you home for high winds and rain.
• Check with your insurance provider to insure all of your policies are up to date and provide adequate coverage.  This must normally be done at least 30 days before a hurricane.  Check with your provider for such deadlines.
• Take photographs or video of your home and its contents to document them for insurance purposes.
• Trim trees and shrubs to prevent damage to properties.
• Prepare Emergency Supplies:
  • Water - at least 1 gallon daily per person for 14 days
  • Food - at least enough for 3 to 7 days
  • Mon-perishable packaged or canned food / juices
  • Foods for infants or the elderly
  • Snack foods
  • Non electric can opener
  • Cooking tools / fuel
  • Paper plates / plastic utensils
  • Blankets / Pillows, etc.
  • Clothing - seasonal / rain gear/ sturdy shoes
  • First Aid Kit / Medicines / Prescription Drugs.  Keep a 2 week supply minimum.
  • Special Items - for babies and the elderly
  • Toiletries / Hygiene items / Moisture wipes
  • Flashlight / Batteries
  • Radio - Battery operated and NOAA weather radio
  • Telephones - Fully charged cell phone with extra battery and a traditional (not cordless) telephone set
  • Cash (with some small bills) and Credit Cards - Banks and ATMs may not be available for extended periods
  • Keys
  • Toys, Books and Games
  • Important documents - in a waterproof container or watertight resealable plastic bag
    • Insurance, medical records, bank account numbers, Social Security card, etc.
  • Tools - keep a set with you during the storm
  • Vehicle fuel tanks filled.  During hurricane season work to keep you fuel tanks at least half full.
  • Inverter to charge phones, laptops, games, etc. from you running car.
  • Pet care items
    • Proper identification / immunization records / medications
    • Ample supply of food and water
    • A carrier or cage
    • Leash

Before the Storm - Hurricane Warning is Issued:

The following recommendations should be considered in the event a storm is imminent in your area.

• Monitor your local city Office of Emergency Management for evacuation orders or other information specific to your area.
• Check for available shelters if you can safely stay in the area in the event that your home is in danger or may sustain damage.
• Monitor evacuation routes.
• Bring in outdoor objects such as lawn furniture, toys, and garden tools.  Anchor objects that cannot be brought inside.
• Do a final check of your emergency supplies.
• Charge your cellular phones, laptops, and any spare batteries.
• If an evacuation is ordered, leave as soon as possible or in accordance with the evacuation order.
• If you leave your home, secure it by turning off electrical power and water.  Turn off gas at each appliance but not at the meter to prevent contamination of the gas lines in the event of flooding.

If you choose to stay:

If you choose the stay during a storm you should only do so if a mandatory evacuation order has not been issued.  If one is issued, leave immediately:

• Store Water.  Fill sterilized jugs and bottles with 2 weeks of drinking water.  This can become hard to find for the first few days or weeks after a storm.
• Fill bathtubs and large containers with water.  This water can be used for utility purposes.
• Turn you refrigerator to maximum cold and open only when necessary.
• Have ice chests on hand.  You may need to live out of them for an extended time.
• Turn off utilities if told to do so by authorities.
• Turn off propane tanks.
• Unplug small appliances.
• Stay inside at all times.
• Listen to radio or television for hurricane progress reports.
• Stay inside, away from windows skylights, and glass doors.

After the storm:

• If you have evacuated, monitor the news for your home area.  Do not return until told to do so.  It is probable that there will be a lack of basic services.
• Do not call utility companies within the first few days after the storm as they will be busy handling emergencies.
• Stay tuned to local radio or television.
• Return home only after authorities say that it is safe to do so.
• Avoid loose or dangling power lines.  If possible, report them to the power company or local authorities.
• When working in the yard beware of snakes, insects, and animals driven to higher ground by flood water.

Links:

The following links are provided to allow you to collect more information on being prepared for a disaster such as a hurricane.

Texas Department of Emergency Management

Galveston County Office of Emergency Management

Harris Count Office of Emergency Management

Brazoria County Office Of Emergency Management

National Hurricane Center

Harris County Hurricane Tracker Popup!

When it looks like we are about to get into some freezing weather, the first thought that comes to mind is if you have adequately protected your home.  You may have some special considerations for your home, depending upon what systems you have and how they are configured; however, this should get you moving in the right direction.  Whether a system needs protection beyond these recommendations is beyond the scope of this document, so be sure to consult with your plumber or other professional who is familiar with your system and needs.

The needed degree of protection will be very dependent upon the age of your home, (and thus the quality of built-in protection), as well as the temperatures and the duration of the low temperatures expected.

Probably the most urgent need that comes to mind is protection of the pipes in your home.  This may be less of a concern in newer construction where the pipes are normally more thoroughly protected.  In general, you want the pipes to be sufficiently protected to prevent loss of heat so they don’t get so cold they freeze.  In older homes, this may include the need to insure the pipes at the attic, outside fixtures, crawlspace, and garage are protected because, frequently, they are not.  Don’t forget locations such as outdoor kitchens or quarters.  In very old homes where insulation may not exist in the walls containing pipes, and depending upon how cold it is expected to get, this may be more of a problem.

Secondary to the pipes in your home is plumbing in your yard such as pools, fountains, sprinklers, etc.  These should be protected and are much more vulnerable to freezing since they rely mainly on the energy from the ground for protection.  Running pumps for pools or fountains where the water can take on energy from the ground to keep it above freezing can be effective if it can be assured that all plumbing is in use.  Where this cannot be assured, insulation should be applied with care that pumps are kept free of obstructions, which could affect proper cooling.  Sprinkler systems should have exposed plumbing well insulated.

If you must leave your home unoccupied for an extended period during the freeze, consider leaving on the heat sufficient to prevent freezing of the water at the fixtures and at the walls and attic.  If you cannot do this, then winterize the house by draining the water from the plumbing system and adding an antifreeze to plumbing traps.

Be sure your heating systems are in good and safe operating conditions.  By this time you may have already had them checked and have been running them.  If not, plan to have your winter service to be sure the equipment is safe to run.

Before the Freeze

• Protect faucets, outdoor pipes, and exposed pipes in unheated areas
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    • By wrapping them with rags, newspaper, trash bags, or plastic foam.
    • If you are unsure about the potential for freezing of pipes at your crawlspace, assuming you have one, cover any vents around your home’s foundation.  This should only be temporary and should be removed as soon as possible.
    • Protect outdoor electrical pumps.
    • Leave them running during freezing conditions to keep water circulating through the ground.  If the system is totally above ground, then drain it.
    • If you have a pool, keep the pumps running and leave your valves set so that you have water flowing through all the pipes.  If this is not possible, insulate the system.
    • Keep fountains running if the pipes are underground.  If all the plumbing is above ground, drain them.
    • Protect well equipment.
    • Drain water sprinkler supply lines where they are above ground.

• Set your thermostat at a minimum temperature of 55 degrees, especially when you’re gone for the day or away for an extended period.
• Make sure you know where your home’s shutoff valve is and how to turn it on and off.  If you are relying on the street valve, be sure to have a tool to turn it.  You may want to make sure the valve works and is not stuck as they are infrequently used.
• You should also cover the pipes in the attic if they are exposed because it can get cold enough to freeze there.
• Drip the water at your faucets if they are suspected to not be well protected at the attic space or outdoor fixtures.  The theory here is to insure the continuous transfer of heat from the ground into the plumbing system, so this may be less effective on fixtures poorly protected and a great distance from the water supply.

If you must leave your house:

• Consider turning off your water at the shutoff valve while faucets are running to drain your pipes. Make sure you turn the faucets off before you turn the shutoff valve back on.
• Use potable antifreeze in the drain traps of fixtures such as toilets and sinks.  The antifreeze should be able to be flushed down the drain when the fixture is put back into use.
• If you drain your pipes, you will need to turn off your water heater and drain it when extended freezing weather is expected.
• Set your thermostat at a minimum temperature of 55 degrees, especially when you’re gone for the day or away for an extended period.

If Your Pipes Freeze

• If a pipe bursts and floods your home, turn the water off at the shutoff valve (street).  Call a plumber for help if you can’t find the broken pipe or if it’s inaccessible.  Don’t turn the water back on until the pipe has been repaired.
• If the pipe hasn’t burst, thaw it out with an electric heating pad, hair dryer, portable space heater, or towel soaked with hot water. Apply heat by slowly moving the heat source toward the coldest spot on the pipe. Never concentrate heat in one spot because cracking ice can shatter a pipe. Turn the faucet on and let it run until the pipe is thawed and water pressure returns to normal.
• Don’t use a blowtorch or other open-flame device. They are fire risks and carbon monoxide exposure risks.

Welcome to the Professional Engineering Inspections WEBCAM construction page.  The following images were taken during home constructed by a builder in the Houston area.  This means that the construction process will be significantly similar to the process a typical buyer might encounter during construction of a new home.  This is not a project of ours we just thought the images were interesting and informative.  The provided images and comments are intended to be general in nature to be informative to our clients, covering information frequently asked for and often of interest to our clients.

You may view a time lapse of the stages of construction on this page.  I did not get the camera running until after the soil preparation was completed, let me bring you up to date on where the video series begins.

The process starts out with an empty lot.  Plans are developed for a home design to fit the lot, soils sampling is taken, foundation design is developed, and the plans are engineered and pushed through the city for permitting if you are in a municipality that requires permitting.

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  No assumptions should be made regarding permitting and code enforcement.  Since the Texas Residential Construction Commission was defunded by the legislature, there is no standardized mechanism in Texas requiring code inspections in unincorporated areas.  If you do not live in a municipality that funds and enforces code inspections, you probably have no oversight unless you hire an outside inspector.  Some counties are working to implement this type of program and requirements may differ by county.  If you do not contractually obligate your builder to address your inspector’s concerns and to meet a specific standard for construction, you still have little recourse.  (An interesting article discusses this topic.)

Once you have plans for construction that have been developed and approved by the local municipality, assuming you are in one, the process of construction can begin. In our area where the soil is expansive, this often begins with placement of a select fill.  In cases where soil is found to be very expansive, soil at the site of the foundation will often be removed and replaced with select fill having a significantly lower potential to expand and contract with changes in moisture content.  In most construction, a sand base is applied over the existing soil once the grass is scraped off.

The following articles outline the common construction defects found during inspections in the Houston area.  Due  to the nature of some defects you should recognize that in some cases it is difficult to detect certain defects even when looking for them and they may not be readily apparent until some degree of failure has occurred.  Often early dectection would require disassebly also known as "destructive testing" which most inspection companies do not perform during a visual inspection if at all.

In each article I will try to help you to detect these problems and understand a possible solution.  You should always consult a professional to best understand specific problems since the best method of repair in any situation is most often dictated by the actual configuration of the construction being assessed.

Over the years I have inspected a number of whirlpool tubs in homes.  The ones I typically see are have been used for years and often when they are turned on debris are ejected out of the jets as a result of organic growth in the plumbing system.   This almost always prompts my clients to question how tubs should be cleaned.

Most manufacturers provide specifications for cleaning.  As a result of questions I have gotten on this subject I have prepared a list of informational links and documents on this page.  If you have comments or further information please submit them either through your account or on the "Contact Us" page and I will be glad to include useful information.

A Risky Soaking: Study Shows Whirlpool Water Can Be Dangerous

Microbial Loads in Whirlpool Bathtubs:An Emerging Health Risk

ASHI - Bacterial Hazards Whirlpool Baths

by: Jessy Norman

Whatever your home improvement needs - large or small - you need a professional contractor you can trust. A contractor who will provide you with sound advice on products, reasonable explanation of procedures, and, most important solid results. It's difficult to determine the capabilities and reliability of a contractor. That's why this was prepared - a simple, step-by-step guide designed to help you find the contractor right for you.

Step 1: where to begin

Any home improvement is a complex combination of elements, the success of which depends on the quality of materials, installation, and over-all construction. There are many ways to start your search for the contractor who meets your individual needs. Referrals are obviously the best source for names of credible companies. Ask friends and family members who they have used in the past. Contact your local chamber of commerce about contractors who are active in the community The Better Business Bureau, state and local licensing authorities, local trade associations, and your local yellow page directory are also excellent sources of information. Also, local suppliers of building products.

STEP 2: meeting and evaluating potential contractors

After you have compiled a list of possible contractors, take time to evaluate each one carefully A professional contractor will be happy to provide any information you may require. Many homeowners have been mystified by the seeming lack of interest and response from the contractors they call. To get a contractor to respond to your call, tell him you are shopping around, but are only interviewing three contractors, not ten. A contractor is shopping for good jobs that will make a fair profit and bring future referrals. Many contractors have had experiences with unreasonable or dishonest homeowners. Therefore, they look for warning signs of customer problems during the initial job interview.

Set up a meeting to discuss your needs and their qualifications, and be sure to pay close attention to the attitude of the company representative. Good contractors take pride in their work and will be enthusiastic about the possibility of helping you with your problems. If you feel confident that the contractor is truly interested in your project, ask for the company's vital statistics - specific business information which will help you make your final decision.

 Step 3: utilizing the contractor's product knowledge

Your contractor should have up-to-date knowledge on quality products for your project. He or she is the best source of information, but you should play an active role in the product selection process. Ask questions about different materials Such as brand names, life span, thickness, design, available colors and warranties. Selecting the best products is as important to your job as selecting the right contractor.

Step 4: Understanding and negotiating the contract

Prior to drafting a contract, most contractors will provide you with either an estimate or a proposal. An estimate typically provides a single price, a generically described product, a color, and no options. A proposal offers more detail with a choice of products by brand name, prices, services, and designs. A proposal will normally offer options good, better and best - and include product samples and literature. A contractor who takes the time to prepare a good proposal will most likely do a more thorough job. All items to be accomplished should be written as part of your contract. Get it in writing. Beware of verbal promises. When a contract is presented, it should spell out the proposed work, prices, and completion date. Read the contract carefully Misunderstandings are the most common cause of contract disputes. Pay special attention to be certain that at least the following points are covered in the contract. Building permits - what's necessary? Consider local ordinances, costs, posting requirements. Start and completion dates - including plan of action in case of weather delays. Products materials - what will be used, brands, colors, etc. Protect Inspections and number of inspections, completion timetable Site procedures - work hours, clean-up procedures on and around your home, safety precautions, etc. Warranties - including both workmanship and product. Terms - detailed -as method and timing of payment to include a lien waiver upon final payment.

Liens - you should be aware that under the laws of most states, a contractor who does work on your home, or a supplier of materials for such work, has a right to place a lien on your property Make sure all essential elements of your agreement are written down and understood by both parties.

Also, require the contractor to inform you of who his supplier will be along with any subcontractors that will be used on the job. Either pay them yourself or require that you have a receipt showing they have been paid before paying your contractor.

Right-to-rescind - providing the right to cancel the contract without penalty within a set period of time (usually three days).

Step 5: sit back and relax

A little well-planned research up front will undoubtedly save you a lot of time and trouble later on. Once you feel confident that you have the best contractor, the best products, and the best value simply relax and let your contractor do his job. Do, however monitor the progress of your project to be certain your contractor lives up to his superior reputation. Hopefully this information will simplify the task of choosing a professional contractor.

Jessie Srader is a Houston roofing contractor A special thanks for sharing this information and making it available.

From the June 1997 issue of "The ASHI Reporter"

The act of cutting off the roots of trees that are growing near a building and installing a barrier to prevent their reestablishment in the area where they are not desired is called installing a root barrier, a root wall, or root capping. The need for root barriers is related to the fact that expansive clay soil shrinks as it dries out. Any structure that expansive clay soil is supporting will move downward as the soil dries and shrinks. If the soil dries on one side of the structure and not the other, the soil shrinks where it has dried and remains expanded where it has not dried, causing the structure to experience differential settlement. Differential settlement can cause serious damage to a structure.

A root barrier is usually installed between concrete foundations or flatwork and adjacent trees within their mature height from the foundation and where there is expansive clay soil to prevent tree roots from consuming moisture from the soil under the area of concern (figure 1).  The barriers are installed so that they intersect imaginary radial lines extending from the trunk of the tree to the edges of the foundation.  Root barriers can prevent damage to flatwork concrete such as walks and drives or to concrete slab on grade foundations. In some cases it is possible that differential settlement that has occurred because of shrinking soil can be reversed. The soil under a structure will swell or expand as it becomes rehydrated and in doing so will lift the portion of the structure that has experienced differential settlement back to near the level of the structure where differential settlement has not occurred.

Figure 1

Root barriers can be made with any impermeable durable material that can withstand burial in soil for an extended period of time. Current information is that root barriers need to be installed to a depth of 30 inches minimum and they must extend above the surface of the soil enough to prevent roots from growing over the top (figure 2). There are root barrier materials that are permeable to moisture but will not allow roots to grow through them because of the chemical makeup of the barrier. It is our opinion that permeable root barriers should only be used under special conditions since the impermeable barriers hold moisture at the locations where it is desired.

figure 2

Large trees with tap roots, such as pecan trees, may affect soil volume to a depth greater than the 30 inches indicated above. There is evidence that large pecan trees dry soil to the "water table" which causes it to shrink for a great depth. Where pecan trees have been removed to construct a building, the soil where the pecan tree was removed has swelled, causing significant damage to the interior of the structures. Pecan trees existing near a building have caused less differential movement during extended dry periods than other trees, probably because the tap root obtains a large amount of the trees' water requirement from the "water bearing strata" usually found within 20 feet of the surface. Root barriers between pecan trees and similar type trees do have the effect of reducing shrinking of the soil on which a building rests.

When there is a desire to improve the out-of-levelness of a structure by rehydration of the supporting soil and there are large trees involved, there must be a root barrier installed.  Releveling in this case can be accelerated by the installation of a foundation watering system . The watering system should be arranged to supply water uniformly around the foundation of a structure during extended dry periods. The moisture level of the soil should be maintained at an optimum condition so that there is no ponding water or overly saturated soil. This condition at present appears to be a subjective judgment on the part of the watering system operator. The moisture provided must be enough to prevent the soil from shrinking during extended dry periods, but free water should not be allowed to accumulate at the perimeter or underside of a foundation.

Installation of a root cap, root barrier, or root wall should be undertaken by a qualified tree expert if there is concern for the health of the tree whose roots are to be cut. Most tree experts in the Houston area have installed root walls and are familiar with their effect on trees. If a root barrier is installed between a tree and a structure where the tree is surrounded by large areas of flatwork concrete, or other buildings, there may be insufficient moisture for the tree to continue to live.

The installation of root barriers should always be implemented as part of a foundation maintenance program. General guidelines for care and maintenance for foundation on expansive clay soil can be found by reviewing our Foundation Care Document.